In addition to all the steps in the Jaguar manual!

It is virtually essential to use an engine levelling device to remove the XK150 engine and the gearbox and overdrive. I used a leveller that had lifting points 400mm apart, almost exactly the distance between the head studs between 6-5 and 2-1.

Using simple slings as stated in the Jaguar service manual will be problematic, especially with an overdrive car!

To minimise the chance of disturbing the cylinder head gasket seal, use four right-angle steel lifting lugs 75mm x 50mm, trimmed as needed, and drilled with a 13mm hole on each leg. Fit one at a time, re-tensioning the head nut after each one. Leave 10-12mm between the pair of lugs to connect a 10mm shackle or other lifting hardware.

Elevate the XK150 so that its chassis is at least 125mm (5") higher than the at-rest height. This ensures that there will be clearance at the rear of the overdrive when the engine etc is angled out to clear the bonnet lock cross-member

Remove the two bolts that hold the left hand steering rack footing to the metalastik rubber
mount, allowing the rack to be pulled forward when trying to clear the dynamic balancer over
the rack. This tip is also valid for all non-overdrive XK150s.

Remove the tachometer drive from the rear of the head.

Wrap some corflute signboard around the steering rack to protect it. Hold the corflute with cable clamps.

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T5 switches

Tie off the neutral switch cables and fix to the T5 case. I used two dobs of black silicon adhesive to attach neutral switch cables.

Refer here for later connecting the reverse switch.

 T5 stub gear lever

Remove the stub gear lever and its plate by removing the four 8mm setscrews, then using two screw drivers to break the seal. Remove any sealant material, ready for the later re-sealing of the plate. Cover the hole with gaffer tape. Later the opening will be used to fill the gearbox with Dexron III oil (2.3 litres).

T5 rear output flanged shaft

During refitting of the engine and T5, to make it easier to get the engine and T5 assembly rear end up onto the XK150 cross-member, remove the internally-splined output shaft from the T5, cover the hole with plastic sheet and a cable tie, and keep the removed output shaft spotlessly clean. Removing the splined output shaft makes a big difference when finally positioning the engine and T5 over the cross-member, because the T5 rear extension casting diameter is much smaller than the universal joint flange, and the overall
assembly length is reduced by ~25mm (1”).

Well in advance, to allow paint to dry, clean the sliding output shaft with solvent, then paint the non-contact surfaces with black paint.

T5 rear seal

Protect the lip of the rubber shroud seal at the very rear of the T5. What you see is not the real rear oil seal, which is inside the extension. However, the integrity of the shroud is important as it keeps the sliding surface clean.
 

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